Sunday, November 13, 2005--A day in Tlacochahuaya

We skipped this week's Sunday concert of the State Band of Oaxaca to explore the town of Tlacochahuaya, just 11 miles from Oaxaca. We knew it had a beautiful 16th Century church, San Jeronimo, but had no idea what it would really be like. On Sunday, the town was restful and quiet, with immovable dogs sleeping in the sun in the middle of the streets.

Mass was being celebrated under a canopy outside the church, because the church itself was being used for a rehearsal of an organ concert scheduled for tonight, part of a yearly series of concerts on the Baroque organs of the State. This let us wander around the church and take photos without disturbing anyone.

The facade of the church is simple and symmetrical, with splashes of deep blue in the niches devoted to holy figures. Radiating strings of flags, flapping in the breeze, added a touch of lightness to the stones.

The most interesting figure on the outside of the church is that of the church's patron saint, San Jeronimo, listening to the voice of God, apparently coming to him through an ear trumpet. Check out the next picture.

That's a raven sitting on the old saint's head, and, I think, a look of astonishment on his face--the saint's that is.

The inside of the church was far more beautiful than I had expected--incredibly ornate, exquisitely painted and decorated, and with some striking carvings.

My large-scale photos don't begin to do justice to the interior of the church; you really need to see it for yourself. Still, a few details will give you a sense of how much faith and art went into this structure.

Just one detail from inside the church at Tlacochahuaya.

With the permission of the sacristan, we climbed up the very steep spiral staircase to the organ loft, where a talented Mexican organist, José Suárez and Spanish bariton, Josep Cabré, were practicing. The baritone had an incredible voice, which filled the church as he paced up and back, apparently looking for the best spot from which to sing. They were preparing for tonight's concert, part of the Oaxaca's organ festival that takes place every November. The concerts feature the state's superb collection of beautifully restored baroque organs.

The most interesting feature of the Baroque organ was the row of faces painted onto the organ pipes themselves, mouths wide open. I don't know how common this kind of decoration is, but I've never seen anything like it before.

Detail from the organ of the Church of San Jeronimo Tlacochahuaya

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