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Oaxaca tourism updates

Oaxaca, February 15, 2008

APPO, the politically active group that caused massive disruptions in Oaxaca throughout much of 2006, has re-established a presence on Oaxaca's zocalo. They've put up and are staffing a tent at the north end of the square, from which they are handing out literature, playing music, and displaying slogans. Just across from the tent, where the State Band normally gives its Sunday concerts, about a dozen vendors have staked out spaces from which they are selling APPO-inspired art, CDs, T-shirts, and some normal artesanias.

"La lucha sigue"--the struggle continues--APPO's new toehold at the zocalo

This renewed APPO presence in the zocalo is a very sensitive issue, since APPO's long occupation of Oaxaca's central square in 2006 was a very visible symbol of their power. It took the intervention of the Federal Preventative Police, in large numbers, to displace them late in 2006. You can review those events here.

APPO-related art, music and T-shirts at the zocalo once again

So far the government's only visible response has been some low and noisy overflights of the city by a military helicopter. The government used similar flights towards the end of the 2006, ostensibly for observation, but also as a show of force.

In the meantime, Oaxaca is bustling with tourists who are here to soak up the beautiful spring weather and to take in the celebrations associated with the 40 days of Lent, leading up to the rich and evocative processions, observances, and other events of Semana Santa, Holy Week.

Mexico City, August 14, 2007

The four Spanish tourists who were arrested and, by their account, mistreated by police in Oaxaca, have been freed by a Federal court, eight days after their arrest. They were freed without conditions, so, if they wish, they can continue to travel in Mexico, and can enter or leave the country when they want.

Oaxacan police claim that the group were involved in a political demonstration, which violates Mexico's constitution. The four young people, an attorney, a journalist, an anthropologist, and a professor, deny that. At least some of them are, by report, affiliated with the Barcelona-based International Civil Commission for the Observation of Human Rights. Reading between the lines, it may have been this affiliation, rather than any specific acts, that led the police to arrest them.

Oaxaca, August 13, 2007

On August 5, four young Spanish tourists were arrested in the center of Oaxaca. By their written declaration, they were forced into a truck by the police, threatened, mistreated, and eventually transported to Mexico City. They were officially charged with "creating a public scandal." One report said that what they were doing was watching a video of last year's protests and confrontations. Spanish newspapers report that a judge will decide today whether they will be set free or deported to Spain. It is possible that the Oaxacan police singled these young people out because some of them may be affiliated with a pro-zapatista support group in Spain.

Visitors to Oaxaca from abroad need to be aware that the Mexican constitution forbids foreigners from involving themselves in Mexican politics. We do not know whether or not these four Spanish men and women were involved in Oaxaca's political issues, but it seems likely that the police thought that they were. The four people involved have said that they did not take place in any political activity in Oaxaca, although they were aware of the problems there.

Oaxaca, July 23, 2007

Oaxaca's 2007 Gueleguetza opened yesterday with a fully packed auditorium. Unfortunately, it took a large police presence to keep demonstrators away and allow the event to take place. Despite the full house, a report from Oaxaca's hotel association indicated that occupancy remains below 40%, so clearly tourism--Oaxaca's economic lifeblood--remains low. The Gueleguetza will conclude on Monday, July 29, hopefully without further clashes between demonstrators and police.

Oaxaca, July 16, 2007

The Gueleguetza, Oaxaca's world-renowned folk festival, has once again become the focus of protests. Today several hundred protestors tried to enter the Gueleguetza auditorium on Fortin hill, overlooking Oaxaca. The police met them with teargas, and kept them from entering the stadium. The protestors' immediate goal was not clear--some said they wanted to use the auditorium for a people's Gueleguetza, while others said they wanted to prevent this years official Gueleguetza from taking place.

The Oaxacan state government has vowed that this year's Gueleguetza will take place. Protestors forced last year's celebration to be cancelled at the last minute.

At this point, it is not clear whether or not this year's festival will take place, nor how comfortable it would be for visitors who plan to attend.

Oaxaca, June 15, 2007

Thousands of teachers from section 22 of the Mexican national teacher's union staged another march yesterday, along with a large number of supporters representing APPO, the Poplular Assembly of the Peoples of Oaxaca. The marchers crossed Oaxaca, spray-painting slogans as the passed, and entered the zocalo. They continue to demand the release of leaders and other people who were arrested during last year's protests, and who remain in prison. They also continue to demand that state governor Ulises Ruiz resign.

Surprisingly, a spokesperson for Governor Ruiz announced Ruiz's apology for his part in provoking last year's intense political struggle, and, it is reported, for the death of independent journalist Bradley Will.

For the first time since the end of 2006, demonstrators erected barricades and blocked some street corners. By the end of the day today, most of the grafitti had been erased and most of the barricades had been removed. However, a number of teachers remain in the zocalo, with the stated intention of establishing and maintaining a new planton, or encampment. It's not yet clear how many teachers will try to stay in the zocalo, nor how long they intend to stay.

Oaxaca, May 15, 2007

During yet another march and demonstration today, a representative of APPO announced that APPO intends to disrupt this year's Gueleguetza. This stands as a challenge to the governor, who is under pressure from business leaders and ordinary citizens of Oaxaca not to allow a repeat of last year's cancellation of the Gueleguetza, Oaxaca's most famous festival, and one that usually attracts thousands of tourists to the city during the last two weeks of July. If a second Gueleguetza in a row is cancelled, it will deal a devastating blow to Oaxaca's vital tourism industry, which is barely starting to recover from last year's protests and takeover of the city.

Oaxaca, May 2, 2007

A very large number of teachers and their supporters marched across Oaxaca on May 1. It appears that they had reached some kind of prior agreement with the state government, since they were allowed to enter the zocalo without police interference. Many buildings along the route of the march were spray-painted with political slogans, but are being re-painted today. Today is APPO's turn to demonstrate. They say that they are going to take over government buildings in Oaxaca, but just for one day. This level of political activity supports the U.S. State Department's most recent advisory--potential visitors to Oaxaca should check out the current situation before going.

Oaxaca, April 30, 2007

Tomorrow, May 1, will be an important test for Oaxaca. The teachers are planning another march, which will probably be a big one since May 1 is the international workers' day. Reportedly, the police have decided not to keep the marchers out of the zocalo. If the march remains peaceful, and the teachers leave the zocalo, that would suggest that Oaxaca can continue to be the focus of political protests without falling back into violent confrontations between demonstrators and the police. If, on the other hand, the teachers decide to create a new encampment in the zocalo, the implications for Oaxaca would be much less positive. As our Oaxacan friends say, veremos, we'll see.

Washington, D.C., April 19, 2007

Revised travel advisory. Today the U.S. State Department again downgraded the level of its advisory concerning travel to Oaxaca. We feel that the revised statement--which basically advises potential visitors to check on the current situation before going--is a reasonable response to the current situation in Oaxaca. You can read the full text below:

"Oaxaca City - U.S. citizens traveling to Oaxaca City should be aware that from May to November 2006, protests in Oaxaca City became increasingly violent resulting in at least nine deaths.  On October 27, 2006, a U.S. citizen was shot and killed in Oaxaca City as a result of the violence and disorder caused by ongoing civil unrest in the city.  Many of the issues that were the basis for the protests remain unresolved.  U.S. Citizens planning to travel to Oaxaca City should check on current conditions before beginning their travel."    

"Demonstrations - Demonstrations occur frequently throughout Mexico and are usually peaceful.  However, even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and escalate into violence unexpectedly.  During violent demonstrations or law enforcement operations, U.S. citizens are reminded to remain in their homes or hotels, avoid large crowds, and avoid the downtown and surrounding areas.  Since the timing and routes of scheduled marches and demonstrations are always subject to change, U.S. citizens should monitor local media sources for new developments and exercise extreme caution while within the vicinity of any protests. The State Department reminds U.S. citizens to avoid participating in demonstrations and other activities that might be deemed political by Mexican authorities.  The Mexican Constitution prohibits political activities by foreigners, and such actions may result in detention and/or deportation."

Oaxaca, March 9, 2007

Another peaceful March. Yesterday tens of thousands of Oaxaca's teachers staged yet another march, APPO's 10th "Megamarch," once again demanding the removal of Oaxaca's unpopular governor, Ulises Ruiz Ortiz, and the release of members and supporters whom they consider to be political prisoners. As has been the case with all of their marches since the beginning of 2007, this demonstration was completely peaceful. Neither the teachers nor the police showed any sign of wanting to return to the violent confrontations that took place in the latter half of 2006. To most Oaxacans, who are trying to rebuild their economy and bring tourism back to the city and state after a devastating year, this series of peaceful marches is a very promising sign.

Mixe Market Scene

High spirits--a girls' basketball team celebrates in front of Santo Domingo

February 22, 2007

Little by little, tourists are returning to Oaxaca. They are finding a city at peace, at least for now, and more than eager to receive and entertain them. At the zocalo, strolling the andador turistico, or hanging out in front of Santo Domingo , we're no longer the only visible non-Mexicans. In addition to Oaxacans and visitors from other parts of Mexico, we're now seeing lots of Europeans and, finally, a growing number of Americans and Canadians.

Although Oaxaca is once again a safe and comfortable place to visit, the economy--much of which depends on tourism--is still lagging. Hotels are still only half full, Oaxaca's renowned restaurants still have many empty tables, the many excellent language schools have just a sprinkling of students, and guides are thrilled if they get to lead one tour in a week.

Oaxacans are hoping that Semana Santa--the week before Easter--will lure tourists back to enjoy the season's striking processions and celebrations. For once, visitors will not have trouble finding places to stay, and may be surprised by the low rates being offered by even the best hotels.

Oaxaca's Gueleguetza, it's world-renowned, eight-day-long offering of traditional dance and music, will take place in the second half of July. Last year's Gueleguetza was cancelled due to "the problems," to the shock and dismay of most Oaxacans. Everyone is hoping that this year's Gueleguetza will take place without incident. If so, it will be Oaxaca's message to the world that things are in fact back to normal, at least with respect to tourism.

The social, economic, and political problems that led to last year's events have unfortunately not been resolved. No one doubts that there will be more marches and demonstrations by Oaxaca's teachers and/or APPO. Everyone hopes that these will be peaceful, as they have been for years and years prior to the second half of 2006. Two marches have taken place so far in 2007. Both were orderly and peaceful, with an absence of provocations from the teachers, APPO, and the police.

Even with these underlying issues ever-so-gradually being worked out between those pushing for social change and the powers that be, now is a great time to come back to Oaxaca, or to visit this amazing city for the first time.

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