The Zócalo
at its worst, summer 2005Fall, 2005: As many of you know, Oaxaca's famous central square, the Zócalo, has undergone a major, and very controversial renovation. The most benign explanation that we've heard for the changes is that the officials in question want to turn Oaxaca into a first world city. Less charitable people point suggest that the massive project probably had more to do with money and politics than with any grand vision for the city.
The Zócalo
at its worst, summer 2005
Photo by Mario Garza
The "improvements" include the removal--deliberate or accidental--of several of the beautiful old Indian laurel trees that graced and shaded the Zócalo, removing all the old cantera stones that paved it, and opening it up by removing curbs and extending the bland new paving scheme to include the streets that bordered it.
The net result, as one friend pointed out, is that Colonial Oaxaca now has a modern central square. It's not as inviting, beautiful or romantic as it was, but, luckily, it still works. People still meet there, stroll through it, sip coffee or Oaxacan hot chocolate at the cafes that border it, or just sit and and take in the scene.
"We are working to improve the Zócalo."
There are many things in Oaxaca that really need improving, such as the sidewalks, the water system and the traffic. The Zócalo, unfortunately, was not one of them.
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