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The political protests of 2006

November 30, 2006

The end of APPO?

Yesterday, in the early morning hours, city workers guarded by Mexican Federal Police (PFP) cleared the stretch of road known as Cinco Señores of the twenty burned vehicles and 40 tons of trash that had served as APPO's last barricades in the City of Oaxaca. Today APPO members handed the nearby University radio station--their command and communication center for the past six months--back to the University. APPO no longer controls any part of Oaxaca, and is off the air. It no longer has the ability to alert its members to events or rally them to particular areas.

Along with the new "firm hand" (some say hard-handed) tactics of the PFP, local and state police, and the dreaded roving bands of alleged PRI operatives, this appears to mark the end of APPO as a day-to-day force in Oaxaca, although it is possible that it can re-emerge as a more "normal" political force.

Today  probably also marks the beginning of a return to normalcy for Oaxaca, in terms of once again becoming a desirable tourist destination.

However, this turning point is certainly not good news for the hundreds of APPO members and other convenient suspects who have been arrested and shipped to distant prisons, nor for their families and friends.

More to come after the disputed swearing in of the new president in Mexico City tomorrow.

November 27, 2006

Escalation and a change of tactics

Thick smoke rises from a burning building in Oaxaca, 11/25/06

APPO, the big-tent activist group that has been active in Oaxaca for the past six months, announced that November 25th would be the day for another "mega-march" with the aim of surrounding the Federal Preventative Police (PFP) who have occupied the zocalo and nearby blocks for more than a month. However, the large crowd of presumably peaceful marchers was laced with a large number of youths who were ready for battle. Hours before the march, we saw young men with shopping carts full of fist-sized rocks, Molotov cocktails wrapped with nails, and white plastic tubes that they use like bazookas to launch large fireworks toward police lines. It was obvious that a violent confrontation was inevitable.

That confrontation took place during the afternoon and evening of November 25th, with hours of clashes between protestors and police.

The police seem to have changed their tactics, perhaps because the PFP have now been joined by local police and by elements of other federal police agencies as well. They were much more aggressive than they have been since first arriving in Oaxaca. Large numbers of police emerged from the zocalo, firing tear gas into groups of demonstrators, and chasing them out of the area in front of Santo Domingo church, where APPO had created a new encampment.

Federal police now control the area in front of

Santo Domingo church

Late at night we heard what sounded like a gunfight. It's difficult to sort out exactly what happened, since reports from pro-APPO and pro-government sources disagree. There clearly was at least one exchange of gunfire, probably between paramilitary agents and armed activists. APPO sources say that as many as six people were killed and others wounded. APPO sources also say that members of the PFP fired directly into crowds of demonstrators. Many demonstrators were arrested and reportedly taken to distant prisons.

During the course of the night, activists broke the windows of many buildings and set fire to several government offices, and to a building that houses the local association of hotel keepers. News reports say that as many as 24 buildings suffered fire damage.

APPO has also pledged further actions in Oaxaca on December 1, in conjunction with the PRD, the political party that provides financial support to APPO, and that will try to block the taking of office of Mexico's president-elect Felipe Calderon, in Mexico City. Nobody knows just what will happen then.

In short, it appears that a significant number of APPO activists have escalated the violence from their side, and that the various police (and agents of the PRI) in Oaxaca appear to be escalating the violence from their side as well.

In the meantime, it's the ordinary people of Oaxaca who continue to suffer. Click here to read a commentary we've co-authored with a very thoughtful and well-informed Oaxacan friend.

November 15, 2006

Edging toward normalcy

The big news is that most of Oaxaca's 1,300,000 school-age children are back in their classes. The majority of the state's 70,000 teachers, whose strike set the stage for Oaxaca's past six months of troubles, have returned to work. They eventually gained most of what they had asked for, with the exception of the ouster of the much despised Governor Ruiz.

Without the teachers to swell their numbers, APPO, the umbrella organization that spearheaded the sit-ins and barricades that have troubled Oaxaca for the past six month, has had to regroup. They've re-organized themselves under a committee of leaders (rather than the very visible and voluble politico Flavio Sosa). While APPO debates its next steps, Oaxaca seems to be returning to something like normal.

For example, music has returned to the zocalo. Marimba groups and strolling musicians have reappeared, and the State Band of Oaxaca gave its first concerts at the zocalo in six months this Sunday and Tuesday. The sidewalk cafes once again have customers.

The State Band of Oaxaca plays at the zocalo's kiosk for the first time in six months

Lots of people are going about their business throughout the city. Traffic, including the buses that went into hiding after fifty or sixty were commandeered and burned by APPO, has returned to the streets and vendors are again offering their wares at the zocalo. Even a handful of tourists are starting to appear, although most of them seem to be from Europe rather than from the U.S. or Canada. Oaxaca is trying to get back to normal.

The still unpredictable element, however, is what APPO will do and how the Federal Preventative Police, PFP, will react. After APPO's most recent conclave, attended by a reported 1,700 members, the activist group pledged to assume a militant stance once again. They say that they will again put up barricades, take over government offices, and block highways. They've also warned that if Governor Ruiz is still in office when Mexico's president-elect, Felipe Calderon, takes office on December 1, they will join with his major opposition party, the PRD, in active civil disobedience in Oaxaca and in Mexico City. (The PRD has admitted that it is bankrolling APPO, so APPO's willingness to support the PRD's attempt to undermine the new president is understandable).

Since some 4,000 PFP troops remain in Oaxaca, it seems unlikely that APPO will have a lot of success setting up new barricades, blocking highways, or again taking over City or State offices. Still, the possibility for further confrontations remains.

Which brings us to the issue of tourism. On a day-to-day basis, Oaxaca is starting to be an enjoyable place to spend time again, as it has been for decades. The presence of the PFP in the zocalo and nearby streets, and APPO's rather colorful sit-in/market in front of Santo Domingo, are not keeping us from thoroughly enjoying the city and its surroundings. However, we're aware that if APPO is true to its word, Oaxaca may once again be an unwilling host to barricades, occupied public buildings, blocked highways, and violent confrontations between APPO activists and the PFP.

Despite the problems, past, present, and potential, we're glad we're here. But potential visitors still need to use their own judgment.

November 3, 2006

Oaxaca begins a new chapter

Oaxaca's political crisis isn't over, but the city has started to regroup after months of stalemate. The federal police are busy cleaning the zocalo, removing barricades, and clearing intersections.  The highway linking Oaxaca and Mexico City is open once again. Oaxacans and foreign residents, as well as the few tourists in town, have returned to the zocalo to go about their business, admiring the kiosk and surrounding buildings--clear of protestors' tents and banners for the first time in months--and once again are sipping coffee or chocolate at the re-opened restaurants.

The zocalo's kiosk on October 22, 2006

The kiosk on November 1, 2006

A worker paints over political graffiti in the zocalo

However, Oaxaca's protracted struggle is far from over. Teachers and students have created a new staging area in front of Santo Domingo church, and plan to continue their struggle. They vow that there will be no solution until the release of all of their members who are under arrest or have disappeared.

While the PFP (federal preventive police) appear to be moving slowly and carefully, elements of the PRI (the political party of Governor Ulisses Ruiz Ortiz) are threatening to take matters into their own hands if things don't move fast enough for their liking. APPO appears quite willing to battle the federal police, as was evident near the University on November 2, where a large number of APPO supporters repulsed an attempt by the PFP to remove the barricades at the Cinco Señores crossroads.  The PFP seem to be operating under orders not to repeat the events of 1968, when many university students in Mexico City were killed by government forces. APPO activists remain in control of the University and its radio station, plus the crossroads of Cinco Señores and some outlying areas.

Intense political activity is taking place at the state and federal level to try to resolve the conflict, including ongoing efforts to remove the controversial Ruiz from office. Especially since the murder of US photographer Brad Will, the events in Oaxaca are taking place under intensified international scrutiny, which may help to produce a successful outcome with a minimum amount of violence.

Rows of shields marked "Federal Police" near the zocalo

Remarkably, with everything that has been going on in Oaxaca, residents continue their traditional celebrations.  Weddings take place, fiestas are held, and the Day of the Dead traditions are observed.  Altars are seen in homes and public places, although fewer than in past years, perhaps because with so many people out of work, there is less cash available to build the altars.  This year some of the altars have taken on a political tone.  Some bear signs saying "Rest in Peace, Ulisses Ruiz Ortiz," and several of the altars in front of Santo Domingo commemorate the death of American photojournalist Brad Will. The whirl of helicopter blades overhead mix with the sounds of a band playing the favorite music of someone's deceased relatives.  One doesn't know if the "booms" one hears at night are the sounds of festive fireworks or of teargas grenades.
 

Day of the Dead altar honoring slain journalist Brad Will.

The sign reads, "I gave my blood to tell the truth about a city."

October 30, 2006

The storm

The Mexican Federal Preventive Police (PFP) marched into Oaxaca yesterday, October 29. They appear to be highly trained, well disciplined, and under orders not to use excessive force. They are equipped with helicopters which they use for observation, heavy trucks carrying bulldozer blades and water cannons, and tear gas which they use to disperse demonstrators. They have occupied the zocalo and have cleared it and nearby streets of barricades and protestors. They have also cleared protestors from several other sites, such as the Plaza del Valle shopping center. During the day, lines of police standing shoulder to shoulder blocked the streets leading to the zocalo. The federal government says that the PFP will stay in Oaxaca as long as needed.

A line of shield-bearing police occupy an intersection

APPO has by no means given up its struggle. They continue to occupy the university and run its radio station. They have vowed to retake the zocalo. From what they are saying over the radio, they continue to maintain barricades at various locations around the city. In their calls to their supporters, they emphasize non-violent action. At the same time, some of their presumed supporters can be seen carrying sticks, pipes or other potential weapons, and we've seen several vans and buses being burned. This afternoon APPO staged a meeting in front of Santo Domingo church, which was attended by perhaps 1,500 people. Near the zocalo, groups of protestors confronted the lines of police. APPO continues to call for the resignation or removal of Governor Ruiz.

Protestors burn a commandeered bus near the zocalo

Our impression from talking with ordinary Oaxacans--our neighbors, street vendors, taxi drivers, shopkeepers, and just people on the street--is that at this point the large majority are very tired of this extended drama dominating their city. Many want to see Governor Ruiz out of office, and many agree with at least some of APPO's ideas and demands. However, at this point, most desperately want to see Oaxaca at peace, and hope that the PFP will be able to clear the barricades, plantones, and occupied buildings, re-establish law and order, and bring this chapter in their city's history to a close.

Given APPO's obvious determination to continue their struggle in one form or another, the PFP and the federal government still have a big job ahead of them.

And sadly it's the children, most of whom still can not go back to school, who are suffering the most.

October 28, 2006

The calm before the storm

As many of you will have read, last night at least three people, including an American reporter for Indymedia, were shot and killed, almost certainly by police or paramilitary groups. It's been widely reported today that Mexican president Vicente Fox has ordered federal police into Oaxaca. It's not clear when the police will enter Oaxaca or other communities in the state, nor in what numbers, nor with what degree of force. It's also not clear to what extent members of APPO will resist.

This evening, Oaxaca is eerily calm, with hardly any traffic and very few people in the streets.

Nonetheless, from afar I can hear the happy sound of trumpets, trombones, and drums, from a nearby fiesta. Oaxaca remains Oaxaca, even under a dark shadow.

October 23, 2006: Life goes on, but so do the protests

Saturday evening I ran into three young men carrying colorful gigantes--huge cloth and paper-mache caricatures that are part of many of Oaxaca's festivals, hurrying to a celebration. A few minutes later I passed a happy, exquisitely-dressed wedding party coming out of a church. Young people were flirting on the Alcala in front of Santo Domingo as they do every weekend evening. Oaxacans are resilient and have strong traditions. They are making sure that life goes on as normally as possible, even after six months of demonstrations.

The news continues to change daily, sometimes hourly. Saturday morning, the many people who hope the protests will end soon got some good news--the leadership of the striking teachers had agreed to end the sit-in and get teachers back in their classrooms before the end of October. But by yesterday afternoon it appeared that the rank-and-file teachers had rejected that agreement, and were resolved to struggle on "until the end." This morning's newspapers report that our of 55,000 teachers who voted, nearly 30,000 voted not to return to class.

These signs near the zocalo read:

Ulises Ruiz, get out of Oaxaca, and Don't pardon, don't forget

Sunday, at La Casa de la Ciudad, representatives of the teachers, APPO, and other organizations met as part of a continuing forum on "Constucting democracy and governability in Oaxaca." Their first meeting, in August, produced an impressive, high-minded document calling for a restructuring of state, regional, and local government in Oaxaca to end authoritarian government and replace it with a real democracy. At the same time, Governor Ruiz says he intends to retake control in Oaxaca this week.

Right now, the only certainty is that there will be more uncertainty, at least for a while.

The bandstand at the center of the zocalo, covered with protest signs, 10/22/06

October 18, 2006: Report from the zocalo

We've arrived in Oaxaca, hopefully for an extended stay. Our impressions are very mixed. It's sad to see many of Oaxaca's beautiful old buildings splashed with political graffiti. The message is repeated everywhere--get out, Ruiz (the greatly disliked governor). In some ways the zocalo is a mess, half-covered with protestors' tarps, signs, and of course, more graffiti. Most of the streets around town are open, but some in the blocks near the zocalo, are blocked by stone and sheet metal barricades. It doesn't quite look like a war zone, but it does look like the setting for several strenuous months of politcal struggle. On the other hand, in some ways the zocalo is far more real and lively than it was in recent years. Ruiz's "modernization" of the zocalo, plus chasing out most of the vendors, had turned it into a pleasant, but somewhat sterile place, kind of a museum. That's certainly not the case now. In addition to protestors, it's chock full of indigenous vendors, colorful puestos (stands with goods for sale), and, at least during the day, Oaxacans.

What it's missing, of course, are tourists. Most of the people we talk to, language-school teachers, store owners, vendors, and hotel operators, say that Oaxaca is seeing perhaps ten percent of the normal number of tourists for this time of year. At the zocalo, the outdoor restaurants are full of empty tables rather than happy visitors. There are tourists, although many seem to be Europeans rather than North Americans. Like us, they don't seem to be worried about their safety, although, like us, they probably have been advised to stay off the streets in the center of town after 9:00or so in the evening. That's when the protestors hunker down behind their barricades.

Right now, Oaxacans are waiting for the Mexican Senate to come to a decision about whether or not to remove Governor Ruiz. Whatever their decision, it almost certainly won't resolve the situation quickly. The striking teachers have begun to talk publicly about returning to classes under certain conditions, even if Ruiz isn't removed. But the APPO (Oaxacan People's Assembly) comprises many groups with different agendas. They aren't likely to give up their struggle easily.

October 11, 2006: First good news in a long time

The protesters may have reached a tentative accord with the Mexican government. If the rank and file approve the agreement, the strikers will hand the city of Oaxaca back to the control of the city and state authorities. In return, several state officials are supposed to resign, and the Mexican senate is supposed to take up the issue of whether Governor Ruiz should be removed from office. You can read a press report about these positive steps here.

October 1, 2006: Tension increases

According to several reports, Mexico's federal government is massing troops and military aircraft near Oaxaca. The protesters report that they are in a state of maximum alert. The minister of the interior has indicated that the central government is running out of patience with the situation in Oaxaca. It's a very tense time for Oaxaca. It seems likely that there will be some kind of turning point in the near future, but who know what that will be?

September 23, 2006: The President and President-elect weigh in

After being allowed to drift for the past several months, the situation in Oaxaca is finally attracting high-level attention. It remains to be seen what, if anything, this will accomplish.

A few days ago, president-elect Calderon announced that he considers the protests in Oaxaca to be Mexico's number-one problem at present. Although he did not specify what he intended to do about it, the tone of his message was threatening. The next day, presumably spurred into action by Calderon's announcement, the outgoing president, Fox, announced that he intends to resolve the situation before he leaves office.

Negotiations between the protestors and the Federal Government are continuing, but have not produced any significant results so far.

We continue to hear encouraging things from our friends in Oaxaca, and plan to return to Oaxaca in October for an extended stay.

Some interesting photographs of the protests can be found at: www.flickr.com/photos/72025498@N00/.

August 31, 2006: Ongoing protests, but life goes on

Marchers in the zocolo

Photo by Mario Garza

From a variety of reports it appears that most offices and businesses in Oaxaca were closed on Tuesday, August 29. This was an attempt by business owners to put pressure on the state and federal governments to negotiate with the protestors. We understand that negotiations are taking place, which at least offer the hope of a negotiated settlement to this increasingly tense standoff.

At the same time, we hear from our friends that life goes on in Oaxaca. One lifelong resident describes the situation as an inconvenience. Another reports that he was able to spend Sunday morning at the zocalo reading his newspaper and drinking coffee as usual. Apparently, during the daytime most days, Oaxacans and visitors can go about their business, although they may have to take a different route to avoid a blocked street or corner, or may have trouble finding a taxi. At night, however, most people do not go out. The protestors rebuild their barricades and light fires, trying to protect themselves from possible attacks, presumably by out-of-uniform police.

Protest banner in Zaachila                                Photo by Mario Garza

August 25, 2006: Balanced NY Times article

For those of you who haven't seen it, the Times has published a pretty accurate and balanced summary of what's been happening in Oaxaca. Click here to see it.

August 22, 2006: Protests coming to a head?

Recent reports from Oaxaca suggest that the situation is heating up. It appears that the government is increasing its efforts to rein in the protests through arrest warrants for many of its leaders, sporadic attacks on demonstrators, and a middle-of-the-night attempt to displace protestors from the radio facilities they have been occupying and using. The protestors have reportedly responded to these actions by taking over other other radio stations, and by a general strike that took place on Friday August 18. According to a friend in Oaxaca, busses are not running (although taxis and colectivos are), some highways are blocked, and city and state offices are closed. What is happening and might happen next is on everyone's mind. The government seems to have kept a relatively low profile since its very counterproductive attempt to break up the protest in mid June. If, however, they have now decided to crack down on the movement, that would appear to increase the potential for violent attacks on the protestors, and for violent reactions from at least some of them.

August 15, 2006: More on the protests

We've just received a series of updates on what is happening in Oaxaca from an observant and thoughtful friend who has lived in Oaxaca for many years. He tells us the following:

--The teachers' strike has expanded to include other causes. The protestors now refer to themselves as la asamblea popular--the people's assembly.

--They are camped out at the zócalo and under temporary shelters on neighboring streets.

--Since their demands now include the resignation of the state governor and a complete recount in the national presidential election, neither of which seems likely, they are liable to be there for some time.

--There is sporadic police presence in the center of town.

--There's no car traffic around the zocalo or on the nearby streets, so buses, taxis and private cars have to find other routes. The road to the airport has been blocked on two or three occasions.

--There's lots of graffiti.

--There have been a few violent episodes, almost always targeting the demonstrators themselves. You can read an Associated Press story about the latest one by clicking here.

--The Marques del Valle Hotel and its restaurant at the north side of the zócalo are closed.

--At the same time, most cafes, restaurants and businesses in the center are open, and people still frequent them. Our friend tells us that even after the violent episode mentioned above, the zocalo was still full of vendors, tourists and people in the cafes.

--Other sources have told us that all the attractions around Oaxaca--the archaeolgoical sites, crafts villages, markets, etc. are functioning normally.

Our friend tells us that he thinks that people visiting Oaxaca under these circumstances can have a good time. But he adds that people who have traveled in the third world would be more likely to feel comfortable than less experienced travelers.

As I mentioned in our August 4 update, below, we'll be returning to Oaxaca as soon as possible. Watch this space for more information.

August 4, 2006: Political Protests

Many potential visitors may have had second thoughts about visiting Oaxaca after reading Ioan Grillo's July 21 AP article, whose dramatic first line read, "Protestors have taken over the center of folkloric Oaxaca, making tourists show identification at makeshift checkpoints, smashing the windows of quaint hotels and spray-painting revolutionary slogans." (You can read the full article at by clicking here.)

We've been tracking events in Oaxaca closely through reports from our many friends there, all of whom tell us that although there is a serious ongoing strike of teachers and their supporters, stories like Grillo's greatly sensationalize what is actually going on and exaggerate its impact on residents and visitors. As has happened practically every year we've been there, there are protestors camping out at one end of the zocalo, plus episodic marches and demonstrations, but tourists and locals can safely enjoy Oaxaca and its surroundings, sip their coffee or hot chocolate, chat, or check out what the street vendors are offering on the zocalo as always.

To address some of the specific points in Grillo's article, our friends tell us that:

There were some kind of checkpoints on election day, but none before or after that.

The official Gueleguetza was cancelled this year, but there were parades, fireworks, and dances throughout the city.

The beautiful Teatro Macedonio Alcala has not been vandalized or set on fire.

Tourism is down, although almost certainly not by the 75% cited in the Grillo article. Many B&B owners and people who rent apartments to longer-term visitors still have high occupancy rates.

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We'll be returning to Oaxaca soon, and will update this report as soon as possible.

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